Off to the Orchard

Last weekend I sang "Cup of Wonder" by Jethro Tull to myself several times. I grilled some most excellent corn that The Dulcinea had bought and the song contains the line "lie in August's welcome corn". I really must get one of those corn de-cobbers as I'd like to try my hand at canning the stuff. Thinking about corn being in season reminded me that apples too are beginning to tempt us to pick them. I am looking forward to heading out to one (or more) of the many apple orchards around Madison. I've got a number of medieval recipes that I'd like to try that involve apples including: apple muse, a pie of grene apples, Blaunderellys (baked apples), apple cream, Fruays, Tartys in Apples, or Fretoure. Fretoure are apple fritters and you make them with ale. (Unpasteurized, please – I want that batter to rise a bit.)

The problem is that I'd love to be able to make these dishes with apples that were actually around back then. Cortlands? Developed in New York and first put on sale in 1915. McInoshes? Take off, Hoser. They're Canadian from c. 1800. Granny Smiths? These puppies originated in Australia in the mid-19th century. The University of Minnesota was busy last century developing new varieties – Zestars, Honeycrisps, Regents, Honeygolds, Haralsons, and Firesides.

This is not to say that Wisconsin is without apples to call its own. I know of two. Firstly is the Bonnie Best which originated in Cooksville, a town that is just south of Stoughton. The second is the Wolf River variety which was found c. 1880. These puppies are huge and can get up to one pound in weight. Legend has it that you can make a pie from a single Wolf River apple and I intend to test the veracity of this.

However, where I might find any medieval varieties such as the Edelborsdorfer, Costard, Pearmain, Nonpareil, or White Joaneting is beyond me at this point. The Royal Russet is an old variety which remains fairly common by which I mean not impossible to find.

While I'm on the topic of apples, the Steve's Liquor at Mineral Point and Junction Roads is having a cider tasting next Thursday the 16th from 4-6. It will feature ciders from ÆppelTreow Winery.