In the Dawg House with Samara Kalk Derby

Last week I read Samara Kalk Derby's review of The Dawg House, a "Chicago style eatery" down on State Street and was inclined to agree with her assessment. I didn't write anything then but, now that I've been there a second time, I am so inclined.

I've had the Maxwell Street Dog (a.k.a. – a Chicago dog) and Italian beef while a friend had the Coney Island dog. Starting with the last, my friend reported that the Coney sauce tasted like it had been poured from a Hormel can. Enough said.

The Chicago dog's bun was missing the requisite poppy seeds while the relish was not the customary preternatural shade of green nor was it sweet. Dill relish and a dill pickle slice? Hello?! The idea is to have several flavors at once – the warm bun and hot dog contrasted with the cool vegetables and spicy peppers. Not a mouth full of dill-laced cucumbers. As for the meat itself, it was your average dog. I didn't find it questionable, but nor was it a quality kosher beef tube of lips and assholes.

As Derby said, the Italian beef wasn't bad but it was quite good for a town that doesn't have an Al's. Unlike the FIBS cart, it came on the normal slice of bread instead of a funky roll hoolie. Plus they actually filled the bread up quite full, whereas the Library Mall food cart is quite skimpy on the beef. On my first visit to The Dawg House, I asked for a beef and to have it hot and wet. While I got the hot giardiniera, my sandwich was dry, much to my disappointment. On my second go round, I made sure to have them dip the thing.

For some reason, Derby writes: "I chose hot, and ended up with giardiniera -- a mix of peppers and other veggies that was mainly carrots and celery. It detracted from the sandwich and I wished I had gone with the sweet peppers."

Maybe it's because I'm from the north side of Chicago and she from the south side, but I've always gotten hot giardiniera on an Italian beef when I've asked for hots. I certainly did the last time I had one down there which was from Jay's. When my mother visits and brings some beef for me, she always brings a jar of giardiniera. My Italian uncle from Chicago would serve it with giardiniera or sweet peppers. Hell, if I go look at Al's menu, I see the same options as The Dawg House: hot giardiniera or sweet peppers. So why is Derby writing as if she is shocked to see giardiniera on her sandwich?

Lastly, when I was in there earlier today, my friend and I were the only ones in the place yet it took several minutes for us to get our food. Why is this? You dip the beef in the hot gravy, let it sit for a short time and then put it on a bun. A dog? Put the thing in hot water for a spell and let 'er fly.

My last gripe here is how expensive Italian beef costs in this town. Both The Dawg House and the FIBS cart both charge $6.50. In Chicago, the sandwiches are generally a dollar plus cheaper. Here are some online prices I found:

Portillo's: $4.35
Luke's Italian Beef: $4.65
Jay's: $4.85
**Al's charges about the same as The Dawg House, I believe.

Here in Madison, Rosati's charges $5.95. Poppa Coronofoulos Gyros over on Buckeye is also much cheaper but it's so bad, that it merely illustrates that you get what you pay for. So what does the extra money go for? Location? Shipping?

For more on the Italian beef sandwich, check out this episode of Outside the Loop Radio featuring Ed Zotti, editor/confidant/personal trainer to Uncle Cecil of The Straight Dope.