Mike Sula of the Chicago Reader was in Madison recently and now he's written a couple pieces about our fair burg's culinary scene.
First there is a review of Nostrano owned by Tim and Elizabeth Dahl. Tim originally hails from Madison though he and Elizabeth lived in Chicago until a couple years ago where they proved their mettle as pastry chefs.
Tim is executing a menu that wouldn't look at all out of place back here in Chicago in the context of our own recent superabundance of affordable regional Italian. In Madison it's more sui generis, and well placed to adapt itself to the incredible diversity of meat, cheese, and vegetable producers in southern Wisconsin.
The second is a profile of the Underground Food Collective and a savory look at the fine things they do to animal flesh.
The CSA has allowed the group to experiment with preparations as varied as lardo, headcheese, fresh sausages, and porchetta di testa, and to narrow down a 14-item product line that they've just begun to offer wholesale to restaurants and retailers.
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