Showing posts with label Dilla. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dilla. Show all posts

25 August, 2026

The place I love to be around

My ladyfriend and I have been to Chicago a few times in the past couple months or so. It has been wonderful to once again have a companion with whom to explore the city and all it has to offer. Well, some of what it has to offer, anyway. The cool bits.

Back in June we went to see Theater of the Mind. The lady was already in the city spending time with friends who lived on the far north side so I took the bus from Madison to Union Station where we'd meet as she was going to take Metra downtown. It was grey and cloudy as the bus dropped me off on Jackson Blvd. with the iconic Sears Towers just a couple blocks to the east.


The older I get the less I want to drive and so taking the bus was really nice. When I wasn't watching the scenery, I got some reading in and never had to worry about Chicago traffic. Once I found my ladyfriend, our first stop was our usual Loop lunch spot, Elephant & Castle, a chain of English-themed pub & restaurants. There are two in downtown Chicago and we tend to hit the one on Adams which is half a block from La Salle and on this day this is where our ultimate destination was located. Plus going there gives me a chance to walk by The Rookery where my grandfather worked.

Going in we found that there was soccer, er, football on every TV. Shocking, I know.


Being a beer lover, I wonder about the paucity of beer from the British Isles on the menu. Guinness, London Pride, and Speckled Hen was all, methinks. I don't expect any Black Country Ales or any of the other fine brews I sampled in England last year but those Iron Maiden brews are tasty and available here in the States. The Trooper, at least, is fairly common.

A creature of habit, my ladyfriend ordered the meat pie flight just like always.


The joy on her face when it was placed before her made me so happy to be with that woman. Not just at that table in that restaurant but to be her boyfriend. I adore how little things make her ecstatically mirthful. The lineaments of her face seem to have been permanently altered to give her a smile. I love how upbeat and positive she is, how she always stands at the ready to explore and try something new, even if we eat at the same place beforehand.


We crossed the river on La Salle. There's Marina Towers and behind them stands the former IBM building where my parents met. I think that's the Aqua in the middle in blue. Just across the river was our destination, the Reid Murdoch Building, someplace I don't believe I'd ever been previously.

Theater of the Mind is hard to describe. Interactive performance art? Created by David Byrne, he of Talking Heads fame, and his Frau, Mala Gaonkar, it's a journey to the center of your mind guided by your late pal, David. The ad copy notes that the show was inspired by neuroscience and we learn on our journey that our senses are easily fooled and that memory is not as accurate and encompassing as we sometimes believe it to be. With such imperfect tools, maybe our sense of self, our identities, are houses built on sand.

To begin, our group was ushered into a chamber of (not quite 32) doors. In the middle was a miniature house and our guide opened its roof revealing nametags for us. Once we had all assumed an identity, our guide then chose a seemingly random door and we made our way into the next room. It proved to be a viewing parlor at a funeral home where our friend David's casket sat before us atop a bier which was, in fact, a piano.

Ere long the casket is opened...from the inside. David emerges to greet us. Our David was played by Kelli Simpkins whose mild androgyny seemed a perfect fit for such a performance. Clad in a cream colored suit that gave off strong Stop Making Sense vibes, David reminisced a bit before an introductory speech that prepared us for the rest of the show.

Taking a seat at the piano, David introduced us to the tritone and a weird aural illusion whereby two notes are played that some people hear as ascending while others hear as descending. No wonder this deceptive musical combination was called The Devil's Interval. The parlor had a checkered floor and David demonstrated a simple optical illusion with it before ushering us down a red hallway that looked not wholly unlike the airlock in 2001: A Space Odyssey. I felt a bit of the unheimlich at this point as it was a Dave in that scene too.


(All photos are from the show's website. I think.)

I think the red light was chosen not only as a contrast to the white light we were accustomed to but also to stimulate our night vision for the next room which was the inside of David's cranium. Minus the grey matter. Here we learned about afterimages which not only continued the theme of our senses being imperfect but also stood as a metaphor for our lives, our construKtion of memories. The people we meet, the places we go, and the things we do all leave afterimages when they are over or exit our lives and our brains construct memories from them.

But not every demonstration was about fooling our sense of sight or hearing.


At the night club we sampled what we later learned are called miracle berries. Then we are given lemon wedges and, instead of a big burst of mouth-puckering sour, they tasted sweet. These berries mess with your tastebuds something fierce.

The show moves from your senses to how your brain works and the role memories play. We go backstage and David describes, if memory serves, a job he had that involved watching security cameras. And so we watched a scene on a TV of a street. Every several seconds the screen would change to black very briefly and the scene would return. But something within it had changed. Although we witnessed a few dozen changes, I only caught a handful.

When you enter David's childhood home memory takes center stage. We stepped into a kitchen where everything is huge - the chairs are 10 feet tall plus, the counters tower over you. It's all the perspective of a young child. And then we were led to the attic where David talked a bit about his childhood and then we sat down and donned VR glasses. Although I had used them previously, it was genuinely odd to "inhabit" the body of someone else here.

We thoroughly enjoyed Theater of the Mind. Not only was it fun to wander around a large set and have my senses fooled, but it provided a lot of food for thought. The whole thing was quite Phildickian - as if we were replicants discovering that our memories aren't even ours. I was reminded of the Satanic panic of the 1980s & 90s when thousands of people "remembered" and made claims of ritual abuse (and even blood sacrifice) that were wholly without merit. On a more personal level, I thought of instances when my childhood memories were contradicted by friends and also the many, many times I failed to remember events that my ex-wife brought up in arguments.

For about a year prior to her filing for divorce and for a couple weeks after she did so, my ex-wife reproached me many, many times about incidents that I could rarely, if ever, recall. After countless accusations and loaded questions, I came to the conclusion that her Torquemada-like behavior was a mixture of lies and confabulation, of spite and misremembering.

My lady and I caught the El to Jefferson Park where we took a rideshare ride back north to her friends' place. As we waited, I glanced at the Gale Street Inn across the street, recalling that it had reopened and that I would like to go there sometime to see what's changed. Would the food match my memories of it?

Back at the northern edge of the city, I got to meet my lady's friends for the first time after hearing about them for months. We were treated to dinner before hitting the road for Madison and I had some extremely tasty beef brisket smoked by our host.


Two or three weeks later my ladyfriend and I returned to Chicago. A cousin of mine from the Bay area was in town to celebrate his recent retirement and so there was a shindig at the home of a couple other cousins of mine. In fact, just about everyone there was a cousin except for the significant others of cousins.

Everyone had a nice time. My family liked my new ladyfriend and she liked them. She got a laugh when one of my cousins complained that another had just spoiled the ending of Death of a Salesman. Ha!

Sadly my mother was unable to attend the soiree and finally meet the new woman in my life. However, this was remedied the following weekend as we went down again. This time she'd meet my mother and we would go on a neighborhood tour of North Lawndale with Dilla Thomas.

We arrived at my mother's place with plenty of time to spare and so we went and ate breakfast in Jefferson Park. We sat around and chatted for a long time after we'd paid the bill which I took as a good sign. My mother and ladyfriend got along well.

However, the time came when we had to give up our table and begin a leisurely drive to the west side. Since we had the time to spare, I drove us through the neighborhood where I lived as a kid and my lady got to see the house I grew up in. Looking at it from the street, I thought about being a young child and pictured the kitchen as I did then with everything being so tall a la Theater of the Mind. Just how reliable were my childhood memories?

North Lawndale is a west side neighborhood and the tour bus was to pick us up at the Douglass Park field house. We arrived a tad early and wandered the magnificent field house which was built in the 20s or 30s. It reminded me a lot of the elementary schools I attended in Chicago except that they weren't adorned with reliefs of mermen.



We discovered that the auditorium, which was more like a ballroom, was extremely well air conditioned. Also, that it was gorgeous, despite my inability to get a decent photo.


Thankfully my ladyfriend is a better photographer than me.


Just look at the detail of the ceiling.


What seemed to be a dining area off of the auditorium continued the nautical relief theme.


Not only did the park have a pond, but also a rather sizeable swimming pool.

The basement is an arts center with a large area for folks to practice their painting skills.


Indeed, many had and, looking around, I discovered the park's namesake as there were many portraits of him adorning the walls such as this one.


His wife Anna also got some love.


Before we knew it, the tour's start time was almost upon us so we went outside and took our seats on the bus. Unfortunately the air conditioning was severely compromised and we were in for a sweaty ride.

Dilla explained that the park was originally named after Illinois senator Stephen A. Douglas - not wholly opposed to slavery - but was rechristened in honor of Anna and Frederick Douglass - definitely 100% against slavery. He noted that it was the simplest park renaming in Chicago history as it required only the addition of a single S.


The tour began with Dilla noting the Central European and Jewish character of the neighborhood in its early days as the bus stopped in front of an old Turner Hall.


While I've known that Sears was a Chicago company since I was a kid, I'd never been to the old Sears Roebuck campus in North Lawndale which is now, sadly, boarded up.


Across the street was a disused colonnaded pergola that was part of a large garden that the company  built as a place for employees to relax and take a break from the retail grind.


Dilla explained that the famous Sears catalogue and the company's policy of cash on delivery was a boon for black shoppers who often found themselves excluded from stores.

We also got to see the original Sears Tower - not shown.

I didn't know that Allstate insurance started as a subsidiary of Sears until we were parked outside their abandoned headquarters building. 

As we were leaving the Sears campus, Dilla pointed out a warehouse that had been taken over by the Chicago Police Department. It turned out to be the infamous facility where dozens of people were detained and/or tortured under the aegis of former Chicago Police Commander Jon Burge. I had heard about this stain on Chicago's history but had never been by the infamous site.


After driving for a bit more we found ourselves outside the Dr. King Legacy Apartments which were on the site of the apartment that Martin Luther King lived at during his time in the city.


It was really neat to see this site where MLK lived in my hometown as it made for a nice bookend to seeing the house he and his family inhabited when they lived in Montgomery, Alabama as well as all of the civil right sites and museums there.

The final stop of the tour was a bit outside of North Lawndale - the Garfield Park Field House with its golden dome.


The façade was stunning.



The place was built in 1928 and was equally gorgeous on the inside. (Though not bigger.)


There were several reliefs on the walls of the entry hall. Not shown are the ones lauding the road building prowess of Illinois. They, perhaps, haven't aged as well as the others considering all of traffic jams and road construction that plague the highways of the Chicago area.



My only gripe about the place was that the air conditioning was down. D'oh. It just wasn't to be a cool tour.

Well, soon enough it was time to jump back on the bus and head back to Douglass Park. It had been another very interesting tour with Dilla full of great architecture as well as enlightening Chicago history whether it be about the park system, commerce, etc. or the darker sides of the city's past such as the torture scandal, redlining, disinvestment, and so on.

We drove back north and I decided that we'd give Gale Street Inn: The Next Generation a try.


The joint seemed a bit more upscale than the version I was used to and I felt a bit underdressed in shorts and a t-shirt. But no one minded. The menu seemed a bit less like a yeoman's steak/ribs/chop house, although those were still options, and it seemed an effort was made to appeal to a more discerning, shall we say, palate with fancy seasonal salad dressings, for example. I do recall that the more workmanlike chopped salad was no longer on the menu. (Or am I misremembering? Damn you David Byrne and your existential uncertainty!) I am not complaining, mind you. I mean, how could I complain with their French onion soup being amongst the best to ever go down my throat?


They did not skimp on the cheese and the broth was quite tasty. I swore I caught a touch of wine in there. Mmm...great stuff!

We dropped my mother off at her place after dinner and hit the Kennedy. I think she and my ladyfriend got along well. I was pleased that their first meeting went smoothly and that we all got to see some sights and get a large dose each of Chicago history.

On the way home we made a quick stop in Schaumburg at Deli 4 You where I grabbed a bag of snacks for my co-workers.


Maple syrup and paprika seemed like an incongruous combination so I went with it. Upon sampling I determined that either they needed less maple flavoring or more paprika or both. Still, I didn't let the unbalanced taste stop me from indulging.

25 September, 2025

Roasted in Englewood

I've been drinking coffee from Kusanya Cafe down in Chicago's south side lately.

I picked it up while on a tour of Englewood with Dilla last month but had coffee from Indy and Madison to go through before I could finally bust this stuff open.

The beans have a milk chocolate-roasty aroma. 

A nice roasty flavor with the occasional bit of plum. I think "bright" is an accurate description. Tasty stuff!

09 May, 2025

Dilla's universe is transformation

Speaking of changes, I found out recently that Shermann "Dilla" Thomas was laid off by Com Ed last fall but rebounded by landing a job at the DuSable Black History Museum.

I am planning on doing another one of his tours this summer. Chatham? Englewood?

He also started a new show on Youtube called You Don’t Know Chi! Here's the first episode:


28 November, 2023

The Corona Diaries Vol. 99: On Tour With Dilla

(late-July 2023)

(Watch the prelude.)

My Frau’s green thumb continues unabated and local greenhouses are, um, rolling in the green, you could say. After a recent storm, she took these lovely pictures of some of her flowers. Those fancy (and expensive) iPhones sure do take nice pictures.

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A couple years back or so, I encountered Shermann Thomas, a.k.a. “Dilla”, a.k.a. the Chicago TikTok Historian, online somewhere. Probably Twitter. A ComEd employee by day, he makes short videos about Chicago history at night for TikTok and he’s become something of an internet sensation. He has also managed to parlay his online success into a real life tour business called Chicago Mahogany Tours which schleps folks around various south side neighborhoods as Dilla gives some history lessons.

Having listened to the Bronzeville audio drama recently and wanting to take one of Dilla’s tours, I combined the two and I registered my mother and I for a tour of Bronzeville.

The tour bus leaves from the DuSable Museum of African American History so we braved the construction on the Kennedy and drove down there. I don’t think I’d ever been to the DuSable before and was delighted to find it nestled inside the lovely Washington Park. With the sun shining and nary a drop of rain to be had for miles, it was the perfect day to be out and learning about one of Chicago's legendary neighborhoods.

I noticed that the museum was a mere hop, skip, and jump away from Stagg Field where Enrico Fermi and his pals generated the first artificial nuclear chain reaction as part of the Manhattan Project. This reminded me that I had tickets to see Oppenheimer on an IMAX screen and on film, no less, in just a week's time or so.

Other people showed up and began to wander around expectantly - these were our fellow tourists. Eventually the bus appeared across the street. At one point, I turned and saw that Dilla was walking over to us to offer greetings. It’s always weird for me seeing someone that I only know from the internet in real life. How do they compare to the image on my screen? Dilla was taller – I suspect he’s about 6’4”.

Soon we boarded the bus and were off.

The tour began with our guide announcing that our first destination was just outside of Bronzeville. President Biden had recently announced that he was designating a new national monument for Emmett Till and his mother Mamie Till-Mobley and so we drove by their home on S. St. Lawrence Avenue.

Dilla gave some background on Till’s horrible fate and how his mother’s decision to allow his battered and broken body to be seen publicly helped light a fire under the civil rights movement. It was quite moving to be sitting before their home. The building was in the process of being restored as it appeared that there were some masons working on one of the exterior walls.

From there on out, things came at us fast and furious. It seemed like there was a building of historic significance, a mural, etc. everywhere you turned and Dilla enthusiastically told us about them all. Or nearly all.

Although we saw many sites of interest, we usually ended up pulling over on the "wrong" side of the street, i.e. - so that they were not directly outside of our window. D’oh!

Most of the tour showcased Bronzeville’s intriguing history but it also served to put Chicago’s south side on display and demonstrate that, although it has its problems, it is an area of great culture and resilience, not a war zone.

For example, we stopped at Boxville which appears to be the Maxwell Street Market nouveau.

It’s a lot filled with shipping containers that act as makeshift storefronts for aspiring black entrepreneurs who hawk their wares and tempt shoppers with food.

At one point we were driving along and Dilla was talking about jazz making its way to Chicago from New Orleans and he is dropping names the whole time. As if on cue, we stopped in front of this place:

It turned out that Louis Armstrong lived in that middle residence. There’s a trumpet and a French horn in the window. How cool is that, to be at Satchmo’s place?

I first encountered The Green Book about 5 years ago via a very interesting BBC radio documentary. The Green Book was a directory for “Negro motorists and tourists” that was published the last 30 years or so of Jim Crow. It listed hotels, restaurants, etc. that were friendly to black travelers. Our bus stopped in front of 712 E. 44th Street and Dilla told us that the house was listed in The Green Book. Neat! I had never been at a site listed in it in real life before – knowingly, anyway.

And here it is in the 1948 version:

One figure that casts a long shadow over Chicago history, United States history, really, is Ida B. Wells. We got a chance to get off the bus and stretch our feet at a green space at S. Langley Avenue and E. 37th Place where we found a monument dedicated to Wells called "The Light of Truth".

Wells was one bad ass lady. Born into slavery, she would go on to become a journalist who documented the horrors of lynching, an early civil rights leader, a founding member of the NAACP, a black feminist, and more. Quite a woman. We drove by her house on S. Martin Luther King Drive but that photo was out of focus. But you can recognize it by its red turret.

As the tour wound down, we drove by a library and Dilla casually pointed out that Richard Wright wrote Native Son there. Shortly after that at a stop light, he noted a mural of Lorraine Hansberry, who wrote A Raisin in the Sun, on the side of a building on the corner.

Down at street level were scenes from the play.

Hansberry attended my alma mater, the University of Wisconsin-Madison, in the late 1940s. While a student, she became involved with the local chapter of the Communist Party. Also involved with this chapter were my Frau’s grandparents and I believe they hosted Ms. Hansberry at their home occasionally. Often enough, anyway, for her to allow my Frau’s grandmother to do a portrait which is now in our home.

Dilla’s catchphrase is “Everything dope about America comes from Chicago” and, after going on one of his tours, you realize he’s got a good argument for the affirmative. There was just so much really interesting history there in Bronzeville that it was almost overwhelming.

Dilla barely had enough time to rattle off, “You see that parking ramp? That used to the site of the Regal Theater. Back in 1968, a Motown talent scout came down to see a show there and saw a band of 5 brothers from Gary, Indiana…” before he announced we were in the blues district. This was where such famous joints as the Checkerboard Lounge hosted the giants of the genre back in the day. Legendary venues I’ve heard of from tales of blues lore used to dot the streets. Blues luminaries such as Muddy Waters, Howlin' Wolf, and Buddy Guy graced their stages. Koko Taylor surely belted out "Wang Dang Doodle" many a time behind some of those walls.

The tour had all sorts of moments like this. Dilla is a witty and charming guide and he made things fun and informative despite the fact that taking it all in was a bit like drinking from a firehose.

Another thing that caught my eye was all of the great architecture. The Loop may get the press, but Bronzeville is home to some really gorgeous buildings. I know that Chicago photographer and architectural critic Lee Bey has tried to bring the great south side building styles to the masses via his book Southern Exposure: The Overlooked Architecture of Chicago’s South Side but it was another thing to see some of it first-hand.

In addition to enlightening us about Bronzeville and Chicago history and demonstrating that the city’s south side is not adequately and quite unfairly summed up as “Chi-raq”, Dilla also pointed out restaurants along the way and I really want to check out Honey 1 BBQ on E. 43rd someday.

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Bonus photos. What a difference a few months make.