A ghost sign in two parts - Watertown

Galvanic Soap! I saw somewhere on the web that it was the precursor to the Palmolive company.

Ghost signs, Black River Falls

Carry the beautiful with you

When I awoke the next morning, my ears weren't ringing too much from the Stick Men show and my ladyfriend was next to me in bed. Truth be told, I am still getting used to waking up next to another human being as I'd lost that pleasure with my wife a few years back. But at least I had Piper - until just shy of a couple months ago - a friendly face first thing in the morning. Going to bed and waking up alone is just no fun. I so enjoy making coffee for someone, breaking their fast, and planning a day with a lovely lady.

This day was to start with coffee at ACOCA Cafe down on College Avenue. I'd meant to do so back in 2024 but did not for reasons lost in the mists of time and instead ended up going to Copper Rock Coffee Company. I find also that I never took a photograph of the ACOCA's red exterior which makes it really stick out. The owners did a reasonable job of overcoming the industrial ambience of the place and gave it a modicum of cozziness, er, coziness.

We placed our orders and took our seats next to the whiteboard upon which people are allowed to draw to their heart's content. Unsurprisingly, there were cats.

A nearby section of wall was devoted to paintings.

All of these cat pictures made me miss Piper. While I fully intended to adopt a new cat, I wasn't sure when I'd so. Dealing with Piper's death and my divorce simultaneously made me hesitant to adopt right away. Too many feelings and too many memories make it hard to think clearly, at times.

After breakfast we headed to Sunset Point Park in nearby Kimberly for a walk.

The first thing I noticed were the permanent cornhole boards. I'd never seen such things before but find them to be a fine idea.

The bathroom building was painted with a lovely rainbow sky-forest motif.

The scenic overlook was quite, well, scenic.

Just around the bend one could wander down to the river and see all the fancy houses on the shore.

A nearby squirrel looked down upon us letting us know that he was not too happy with the tourists.

A doe wandered by looking a bit mangy. She wandered across the grassy field and into the woods beneath the overlook.

It neared 10 o'clock so we returned to the car and headed out. Because my ladyfriend likes jerky, we made a bee line to All Things Jerky.

They go well beyond beef and have all manner of jerky such as venison, elk, alligator, camel, et al. I suppose a little kangaroo jerky is as close as I'll come to an Explorers Club dinner.

In addition to a wide variety of meats, they also offer sundry flavors such as pepper, teriyaki, dill pickle, Dr. Pepper something something, and so on.

The gentleman behind the counter was very friendly and broke the news that he is tired of the snow and heading for warmer climes. Thusly All Things Jerky was going to be on the market soon.

They also had hot sauce on offer including this one which made me chuckle and put "South of Heaven" in my head despite it being from the wrong album.

Our final stop was going to involve cats, if you can believe such a thing - The Pawffee Shop Cat Cafe.

We arrived a bit before our appointed hour and so got coffee and waited out the short time before we could go into the cats' half of the cafe. 

When we went in, there were cats everywhere but so too were young children. The race was on to find cats to pet. I believe this one was under a bench and rather feisty so we were warned to steer clear.

This feline was relaxing at the top of a cat tree in the open and so she was liable to get lots of pets. Here she is trying to get the human stank off.

And this little lady was in her own private suite for reasons I cannot recall. Perhaps she was recovering from a feline illness and had to remain segregated from her brethren.

After petting various cats and watching kittens energetically scoot around the floor to the delight of toddlers, my heart ached for Piper and yearned for a cat of my own.

When our time with the cats was up, my ladyfriend and I headed home. On the one hand, I really missed Piper. On the other, I was able to shed my (admittedly mild) notions of Appleton as a place to go to get away from my wife and instead view it as the place I go to see Stick Men. It was really nice to be making pleasant, happy memories with someone new.

We didn't run into anymore lions with wings but we did wander by a mural with a chimeric cow. What do you call a cow with the head of a horse? A cowtaur? A hippoboûs?

And look at those rabbits.

They take on an extra layer of creepiness for me now that I am reading Absolution.

While writing these two posts on our venture to Appleton, I realized that I never wrote about my trip there in July 2024. The destruction of my marriage was in full-swing and, feeling blue, I didn't do a whole lot of writing. That and I was always off somewhere else, whether it be purely psychologically or physically too. Dread does not inspire me to write, I guess.

But I had a great time in Appleton. Not only was the Stick Men show great, but I wandered around the city and enjoyed my time there greatly.

There were ghost signs.

And lots of pelicans hanging out by the dam.

Jones Park had plenty of rabbits. (I didn't see a one eating a crab. Ever.)

I wandered what Google Maps calls the City Park Historic District and saw some lovely old homes which had turrets.

This one had a cat looking down upon me with derision.

The History Museum at the Castle had a neat Harry Houdini exhibit. Although born in Budapest, Houdini's family emigrated to the United States and settled in Appleton.

In the basement was a rail exhibit featuring a model rail setup of the old paper mill on the river.

The gentleman who built it was there and talked about the city's history and its life after paper. He proudly pointed out various details in his wonderful work.

And here's a quote from Emerson that was on the back of a store.

I don't know how it is that the Appleton Beer Factory attracts Stick Men but I am happy to make a trek up there every year or 2 to see them. Not too long after the show, a recording of it appeared on Dime just as the taper said it likely would.

I don't know of any bands of note from Appleton but here's a bit of garage rock from 1965 from Appleton's Denny & The Catalinas.

Ghost sign, Birmingham, UK

Ghost sign, Leicester, UK

Belleville: Ghost sign and Trachte buildings

Ghost sign emerges

Ghost sign, interior, Madison

I wonder if the rest of it is visible upstairs.

New ghost sign - Madison

I noticed today a section of a ghost sign that was revealed recently.

 Tractors?

Ghost sign - Madison

I heard tell of this ghost sign not far from my house last year. I think. Last week I finally took a stroll across the creek and got a photo of it.

"SHIP VIA .... SYSTEM"

If memory serves, someone did the Blade Runner image enhancement on it and surmised that it was "SHIP VIA GATEWAY SYSTEM". So I tried to do it for myself.

I think that person on Facebook(?) was right.

Winding my way down to Bakers Place

Whenever I find myself on East Washington, I marvel to one degree or another at the transformation of the avenue from the home of industrial buildings and used car dealerships to a constellation of fancy high rises. Well, as high as you can get when near the Capitol.

Here are a couple of the latest builds: the Moxy, a boutique hotel and Bakers Place, a mass timber building that nears completion and shall be home to folks who can afford luxury apartments. Costs to live in the lap of luxury will surely be high but their website curiously omits prices.

The white exterior makes Bakers Place stick out but is not my cup of tea. Just looks too clinical, too sterile. On the other hand, I was pleased to see that the graffiti had been removed from the Gardner Bakery Co. ghost signs.

The Corona Diaries Vol. 114: Getting cozy

(Listen to the accompanying sound track.)

(early October 2023)

Always a glutton for punishment, I returned to the Chippewa Moraine State Recreation Area the day after my spooky encounters. This time I glued myself to the familiar trails I have always hiked and have never once shared with a homicidal, axe-wielding maniac. To my knowledge, anyway.

While it was yet another overcast morning, there was no rain. The Circle Trail was, as always, simply gorgeous.

I again pondered how to plan a trip up here when there is more fall color. Perhaps senescence is creeping up on me but I would have sworn the Travel Wisconsin website I had consulted before driving north said that we were near peak color.

Not even close to peak, as I see it, but there were some great seasonal hues nonetheless. Just look at these red oak leaves!

As I do every year, I slowly traversed the trail, stopping at my whim. It’s such a relaxing place. Work seems a million miles away and my mind, lulled into a sense of ease by the quiet and solitude, wanders freely. It is nature's Calgon.

 

 

The Circle Trail is a bit over 4 miles long and I once read a description of it in a Best Hikes of Wisconsin book or article that said it took about two hours to walk, on average. I remember thinking to myself that it takes me about twice as long to hike it. When it comes to human locomotion on foot, it's usually about getting from point A to point B in the shortest time. But, if you're out on a hike, it seems to me that the opposite is true. Whoever takes the longest is the winner.

What's the point of going out into the woods if your goal is just to get back to the trailhead as quickly as you can? Why not just remain there and declare yourself the victor? I like stopping often to watch the woodland creatures scurrying about, to listen to the eloquent, rhythmic trills of birds and ponder what they're saying; to smell the earthy aroma of the land and trees; to feel the various textures of bark as well as the smooth yet tacky mushrooms that dot the trees; and to take lots of photographs because it takes me several shots to get one that’s in focus.

In that book I read a couple years ago about the benefits of being out in nature, The Nature Fix, the author noted that it doesn't take very long for salutary effects to take hold. Just 15 minutes can produce a noticeable reduction in stress. The more, the better, I say.

 

On my hikes here, I especially enjoy standing on the shores of the smaller lakes like the one above. The entirety of the lake is in my view and I can see the ring of trees that encircle it. There's just something about this sight that gives me a sense of comfort. It has a coziness to it. Odds are there's a lengthy compound German word for this sensation but "cozy" and "comforting" are the best English words I can think of.

My first encounter with this feeling came as a young boy. The first floor of my childhood home in Chicago was about six feet from the ground. There was a deck at one of the corners in the back that straddled the property line and being about six feet up meant the space below it was rather large. A burgundy picket fence separated our lot from the next door neighbor's.

Underneath the deck, that fence ran until it was parallel to the corner of the house and a small section ran at a 90 degree angle from the main length to butt up against the house to form a corner. A 4x4 deck post was there but there was just enough space for me to squeeze in behind it, for a time.

That corner, that space where the two sections of fence met had a coziness to it for my younger self. And today as a middle aged man I still love those kinds of spaces.

They have to be enclosed, but not completely. That is, the outside world has to be visible or, at least, its presence discernible. I don't find these spaces claustrophobic, just snug, if that makes any sense.

Corners usually evoke these feelings, though by no means all corners, but there are other spaces that do so as well. The intersection of Clover Lane and Sargent Street in my neighborhood is one.

Clover ends at Sargent and the intersection has a lot of trees around it. So, in the summer, the canopies envelop the space giving it that cozy feel. I suppose that a couple terraces overflowing with flowers add to the effect.

Whatever this phenomenon is, I try to take comfort in it when I can.

When my walk was over, I bid farewell to the Chippewa Moraine State Recreation Area until next year and took a leisurely drive east to Cornell down country roads that had no shoulder to speak of. They're mostly tree-lined but there are occasional openings that reveal more gorgeous kettle lakes. My destination was Moonridge Brewing where I’d get a couple-two-tree glasses of muscle relaxant. If I can get a dose soon enough after a hike, I can usually stave off at least some aches and pains.

I rolled into town, which like last time, looked as if it was deserted like in a Twilight Zone episode. It was slightly eerie. At some point a car drove down the main drag to dispel the notion that Cornell had become the municipal version of the Mary Celeste but I saw no one on foot. Much to my disappointment, I discovered that the brewery was closed. Not permanently, just for the day. Oh well. Maybe they were short on help. As long as I was in Cornell, I thought I’d get some photos of the pulpwood stacker that I had neglected to get the last time I was in town.

The stacker, or what remains of it, anyway, is a giant steel structure that looks like an oil rig that leans at 45 degrees. The enormous arm of girders and cross beams looked to have weathered the decades well. Big concrete pillars anchored the leviathan.

As the name says, the Cornell Pulpwood Stacker stacked pulpwood. Here’s the historical marker.

You would have never caught me crawling up that thing to make repairs, I can tell you!

Today a figure appropriately carved from a log sits at the base to serve as a reminder of its former glory keep watch over the site.

By the time I had wandered around the stacker and taken my photographs, my muscles had begun to ache a bit. My hike had done its work. And so I hit the road once more and made my way to Bloomer where I’d be staying the night. My first stop was to be the local purveyor of muscle relaxant, Bloomer Brewery, which, I thought to myself, had better be open or there's going to be trouble.

Luckily they were receiving the thirsty and so I avoided having to cause a ruckus which would have probably seen the local constabulary throw me across the town line into a ditch. I began my treatment with, if I recall correctly, a lighter brew such as a golden ale or a cream ale but then for reasons I cannot explain, my typical desire for beer that tastes like beer deserted me and I got a s’mores porter or stout or whatever style it was. Such novelty beers are strictly verboten in my workaday life. I love the taste of grain and adore the flavors that are produced when they're cooked but, while on vacation, I occasionally throw caution to the wind.

The rim of the glass was lathered with marshmallow fluff that had a dusting of crushed graham cracker. I don’t know. Maybe I was still shaken by yesterday’s spooky walk and spectral encounter at Valkyrie and so my guard was down. Whatever the reason, this beer was a big mistake.

I think the beer itself was OK but I couldn’t really taste it after licking away some of that goop to get clear a spot that I could drink from. All that sweetness dulled my tongue to the (theoretically) succulent maltiness of the brew. I did not eat all of the marshmallow but the damage had been done by the little I did.

My next one was not the beer equivalent of a novelty ice cream treat but I could barely taste it. Heed this cautionary tale - avoid novelty beers!

Having eaten a moderately hearty lunch at the brewery, I needed to get out and about so I didn't descend into a post-prandial lethargy and decided to cruise around town to see what there was to be seen. One thing I saw was an ever rarer fallout shelter sign at the entrance to a church or a church school.

No doubt the older parishioners smile to themselves when the young folk look at it and ask just what the heck it is.

As I cruised down Main Street, I spied what appeared to be a Trachte shed off to the east. I turned down the next street and went in search of it. After a couple wrong turns, I finally found it in an industrial area that was bordered by train tracks.

I have no idea what it is/was used for but it was neat to see a little bit of Madison history up north.

When I went back to the hotel, I immediately showered and then sprawled out on the bed with the air conditioning turned up to high. With the sun beginning to set, it was time to bring out the book I was reading, The World of the Shining Prince: Court Life in Ancient Japan by Ivan Morris. It had been a long time coming.

I bought it back in circa 1999 in order to familiarize myself with the favorite era of Japanese history of the woman I was seeing at the time. She had been a Japanese language or Japanese literature or whatever other similar major the UW had on offer to aspiring nipponophiles. Her long hair and big eyes were captivating and her love of Japanese culture and history was quite alluring. It was impossible not to get taken in by the great enthusiasm and affection that emanated from her every word when she spoke about the early 11th century classic The Tale of Genji and its author Lady Murasaki. The Heian period, late 8th to late 12th century, was, as the kids say these days, her jam.

We dated very briefly and, although I had bought the book, I was unceremoniously dumped before I had dug in. With my main motivation of impressing a pretty lady now gone, I put reading the book onto the back burner as I pursued new frauleins. I never ran into another woman enamored of the Heian period and so the tome remained on my medieval history bookshelf collecting dust. One recent day as I was scanning my bookshelves looking for something to read, it occurred to me that I am getting to a point in my life where I really ought to start reading more books that I've meant to read over the years because, if I delay much longer, they'll go unread.

Published in 1964, The World of the Shining Prince is ostensibly for the layreader. But it has that academic sheen to it. I suppose this is still the time of The Great Books of the Western World where your average middle class Joe is presumed to be able to read Milton in its original early 17th century English and endowed with the ability to comprehend it without any helpful annotations.

Despite a fairly staid writing style, the book was quite interesting. The 2 centuries previous to the Heian period saw Japan appropriating any and everything it could from China much the way they pillage American culture today and come away with a profound love of baseball and Elvis. But as the 8th century became the 9th, the Japanese became more insular and began to generate their culture themselves rather than borrowing it from across the East China Sea.

As the title indicates, we’re talking about court life here, not the lives of the rural peasants. Chinese was still the language of choice in administrative, religious, and academic matters (like Latin was in the West during the Middle Ages) but Japanese became more common in literature during this time.

Buddhism came ashore and mixed with the native Shinto religion while the various superstitions that reigned such as directional taboos and a panoply of demons and ghouls were likely derived from older Japanese folklore.

At court, gentlemen were expected to be aesthetes of the highest order with a great sensitivity to beauty in art such as painting as well as more utilitarian things like gold inlaid boxes that held scrolls. Good calligraphy and the ability to compose verse was important for both men and women while courting. I cannot recall all of the details but the man would write a 31 syllable poem to the woman he was looking to get it on with. She’d reply and courtiers would fall over themselves to inspect her calligraphy to make sure it was up to snuff and everything was done in strict order. Quite a bit different and much more eloquent than a meager swipe to the right on a smartphone.

A very interesting book made all the more so by the fact that I knew precious little about the Japan of any time period going into it.

I woke up the next morning to find it rather muggy out and that the smoke from those Canadian wildfires had settled in overnight giving the town a hazy golden glow.

I got fuel – both coffee and gasoline – and cruised around town a bit more as I had a little time to kill for I had an appointment in Eau Claire at noon o’clock and the trip wouldn’t take me very long.

My youngest stepson had been shacking up with his girlfriend there until recently when she unceremoniously dumped him and kicked him out. He was now living with us in Madison and I had volunteered to stop by the apartment to fill my car up with as much stuff of his as it could fit.

I decided to wander the streets of Bloomer once more to see if I had missed anything yesterday and ran across a couple more items of interest. First was a restored ghost sign for the Hotel Anderson on Main Street.

 

There's a coffee shop on the ground floor and it looked like the upper storeys were now apartments. Perhaps tourists from Illinois stayed there while on vacation back in the 20th century.
 

I also found that the sign for the old telephone company was still around. The building was now home to an internet service service provider, I believe.

Instead of taking Highway 53 all the way, I exited it before Eau Claire and took some backroads. I ended up at this intersection where county highway workers no doubt had a good laugh over a couple cigarettes and coffee when putting up the signs.

In Eau Claire, I stopped at a coffeehouse for more go juice and then at a dentist's office where some statuary had caught my eye back in August but a chance to take photographs eluded me.

Noon rolled around and I zipped over to the apartment. The kid’s ex-girlfriend was very kind and helpful. Much to my delight, I found that she had packed up his stuff and done so without seeming to have intentionally destroyed anything. She even helped haul some of the boxes to my car.

As I cruised down the road headed for home I was sad that my vacation was over. My hikes were simply wonderful and I enjoyed investigating Bloomer. But it was back to the workaday world and to being a stepdad to a very lost young man. I had to lend the kid support and try to convince him to rub some dirt on that wound and get back on that horse.

He is 24 and it’s all too easy for me to look back when I was at his age and sigh “Kids these days” in an exasperated tone. I was on the rebound too at that time of my life but I was gainfully employed and self-sufficient. Still, I have a lot of sympathy for him. He is welcome to stay with us. It’s fun to have him around. The kid has a long way to go and I’ll be there to help him. As they say, every journey begins with a single step and I am focused on getting him to take it.

********

Bonus photo. This time we have statuary from Mankato, Minnesota.

 

 

(Check out the postlude.)